(ETX Daily Up) – Hunting season has resumed. While hare à la royale is back on the restaurant’s menu, this new style also heralds the return of cooked recipes that are easy to reproduce at home: civet, stew, stew or blanquette. But, by the way, do all these denominations really correspond to the same recipes?
When the fall season is in full swing, it’s customary to head back into the kitchen to whip up some good comforting dishes. Beef bourguignon, veal blanquette, lamb broth… Here are several recipes that cook slowly on the stove and are even better the next day, when reheated.
Civet is more than a stew
Bacon, fried toast, Paris mushrooms, red wine…especially the little white onions! Whether it is prepared from rabbit meat or beef, the civet already reveals the main ingredient in its title. Its name is derived from the word “cive”, which means onion. If we refer to the etymology of the word “cive”, then when we add the suffix “and”, it will be like saying “with a small onion”. As explained in an earlier issue of Historia, it has long been believed that the basis of civet is blood binding, in the same spirit as the recipe for hare à la royale. A “historic mistake” goes back to Madame Saint Ange’s cookbook, published in 1927, entitled “Good Cooking”, which emphasized the essential presence of hemoglobin in the recipe. Culinary historian Patrick Ramburg revealed in a book published in 2000 called Rabbit Soup – Game, Story, Legendary Dish, that onions did not make the dish but rather the presence of blood. We also learn that soup can also be prepared with veal, and even eggs or … oysters!
In the Dictionary of World Cooking, Joseph Favre wrote in 1905: “Whether belonging to slaughterhouse, poultry, or game, stews always have a basic sauce, brown or white, and are served on their own or to garnish other dishes.”. These stews based on lamb, beef, or veal are a general category of recipes that “only” require a piece of meat to be cooked in a salty liquid. The key to success lies not in having one ingredient in particular, but in taste! The term “ragoust” has been in use since 1623 and is etymologically related to the verb “ragoûter”, which means “to restore the taste, to restore the appetite”.
And the foolishness in all of this?
Disappointed in front of the cinema or the TV screen, we all cried out one day during our shooting “But, that was real crap!”. Using a culinary lexicon to summarize a film project would be the fact of using Lyonnais slang to say that a fruit or meat is spoiled. Before it’s a bad movie, the stew is a recipe, often beef, sometimes based on ox in the Camargue country where it’s called the Gardianne. The title conveys not only the basic content of the preparation, but also its geographical origin. The soup is actually Provencal. Today’s soup consists of tomato sauce, red wine, smoked breast, and green onions. In the 19th century, soup was a slow-cooked dish served to the ancestors of truck drivers who transported food commodities in Marseille and Aix-en-Provence. Originally, the name referred to a marinade used to hydrate meat. We must not forget about the presence of the Niçoise variant that provides the addition of porcini mushrooms.
BLUNKETTE OR THE BEST RECIPE FOR ANTI-WASTE
While food waste is a huge problem, a very traditional recipe from the French culinary repertoire has never been as modern as it is today, as long as we respect its origins. With veal, turkey and chicken, Plunkett is made above all by ingesting the leftovers from the roast. Among the French favorite recipes that were once served as an aperitif, blancket also includes the idea of white sauce. to your stoves!