It is the multi-purpose dish par excellence, symbolized by the large salad bowl that we share in the summer during picnics or evenings with friends. Yes, but here it is. It’s not always easy to be original or venture off the beaten path, clinging as we are to eternal mozzarella, simple and effective, let’s face it. Who other than Stéphanie Le Quellec could take up the challenge of amplifying this sunny, laid-back classic? Delighted to take part in the game, the two-star chef invited us to her restaurant La Scène in Paris, a haven of elegance and freshness at a time when the capital is sweltering with a heat wave. An opportunity for anyone who cooks brown crab in brown shrimp broth or red mullet like everyone else to develop a symphony about the salad before our eyes, which immediately reminds her of family holidays: “Summer, it’s on the menu every day, thanks for the good products in the market,” the chef excited , who is impatient to reconnect with her dear Provence, surrounded by her family.
© tiffin karu
Read also >> Stephanie Le Kollek, the resistance chef
What does Le Quellec salad look like? Around the plant are Iberian ham shavings as well as thin slices of raw fish or leftover rib of beef cooked on the grill, as well as prawns or snails … all paired with a good vinaigrette. “I can get bored pretty quickly if you’re not well practiced,” Stéphanie admits. The predicament to avoid? Lack of salt and pepper which can not be added after that. Herbs are a “really good idea. They bring aromatic strength and change the dimensions of the recipe.” Drizzle with oil or work in pesto, basil, coriander, marjoram, and chives but also fresh handfuls of arugula or purslane freshen up any salad, even basic lettuce. His tip? Mix it up with whole, tender leaves ( chervil, parsley, etc.), for a surprising effect when you nibble on them. The success owes as much to the seasoning and ripeness of the produce as to the balance of a maximum of six ingredients. Anti-waste tip you can try: “You can recycle leftover grilled mackerel the day before on Grill by cutting it into sawdust. Final recommendation from the chef: ‘Bet big salad bowls and don’t fill them to the brim to thoroughly coat each leaf in the vinegar. “On the table!
© tiffin karu
Scene, 32, Rue Matignon, Paris – 8.
Vive, 62, avenue des Ternes, Paris-17 (opening October 1).
Shopping List It
In addition to the basic set flur de sel + black pepper, you can put:
1. Very good olive oil. We choose premium virgin, first cold pressed.
2. Roasted sesame oil. Give an Asian touch to tataki or small fish carpaccio.
3. Very good wine or sherry vinegar. For a note of acidity, defrost the first porcini mushrooms with olive oil drizzle.
4. Lemon or lime. In juice, in zest, they slip into a salad, cooked, raw, sauce … with success.
© tiffin karu
5. Herbs. Basil, coriander, marjoram, chives, sage…in whole leaves or to work into scented oils.
6. Tomatoes. Taste with a drizzle of olive oil, a touch of pepper mill, three aromatic herbs and fleur de sel. As for the salad, Stéphanie Le Quellec is in favor of removing the peel but not skinning it to avoid heat shock. If it’s hard, peel it with a peeler, otherwise it’s raw with a paring knife.
7. Radish. Salted, or blackened, roasted roses, sliced and spread with anchovies, wake up with their crunchy texture and unique flavor like a fish salad or rice.
8. Vegetables from the market. Zucchini, cucumber, eggplant…easy to grill on the barbecue. Stéphanie crushes leftover zucchini into marmalade, which she uses to dip her toast. Served with a drizzle of olive oil.