The perfect recipe, the original…mayonnaise gives us all its secrets

From Bayonne, Mayenne, Port Mahon or even Lot-et-Garonne…a basic recipe in dispute at its origin, you’ll only need 240 very small seconds and a knack for mayonnaise. And sublime the simplest dishes. We ask for more.

Slow down, ah, slow down. to live. Stop and move. And dream of aging less quickly. So, there are two options: or add time to time – did you try, too, to no avail? Or extend the time so that every minute, every moment has real significance. And perhaps the fruits of your efforts are already there.

Also, do you like mayonnaise? Rhetorical question: You obviously like mayonnaise. Aged remoulade, aioli, butter from Provence, sweet mustard, egg sauce. In short, ‘Magnonaise’, as it appeared in 1815 in the writings of Antonin Carême, ‘cold sauce emulsified with egg yolk’, less than a century after it first appeared in the kitchens of France and Navarre, under so many slang names we will have only a number left few of them.

Who invented mayonnaise?

The rest is a matter of ego, oftentimes. In Port Mahon, the Menorcan capital, people will say they are celebrating the end of English occupation with a sauce inspired by the island’s only two ingredients, oil and eggs: ‘Mahones’. Elsewhere, Prosper Montaigne will defend the etymology of the word Magnoner, today for “to handle”, to relate, and to understand “beating”, preferring to bring up the history of the tool rather than the history of men: “moyeunaise”. Here, Joseph Favre will assert that it was in Magnon, Lot-et-Garonne, that the invention was born, before spreading to the Southwest, until New Aquitaine gave its twin: “Bayonnese.” To the north, it is suggested that it was in Maine that the legend was born, on the day the Duke fell off his horse on the battlefield the following day, having abused the day before “chicken marinated in a wonderful sauce.” D’ Arques, sated with dyspepsia: a defect with ‘Mayennaise’.

It does not matter, from then on the “mayonnaise” will be imposed. From homemade french fries to kebabs on the go, from canteen mimosas to Russian Embassy salad, and from working tuna sandwiches to family Sunday chicken. Impregnation of the language – “raise mayonnaise”, “mayonnaise takes” – like a plate of a saucer – stormed by “Andalusians”, “cocktails”, “tartars” or “knights”.

European mayonnaise code

So much so that it has been around since 1991, a European mayonnaise code, which will contain at least seventy percent fat, “that is, 69 percent vegetable oil and 1 percent animal fat, for a minimum of 5 percent egg yolk.” Oh, Europe.

But would you have believed it, mayonnaise also holds a key to a divine phenomenon: the ability to suspend time. we are here.

Because when it comes to accompanying salmon, guinea fowl, cold rice, celery, or even German-style apple salad, there seem to be two solutions once again available to the inspiring chef. Choices are always choices.

On the one hand, indulge in the joys of supermarket shelves, to search there, in an ambush, a jar of the coveted sauce, among the three market leaders – respectively “A”, distributor signs and “B”.

Two hundred and forty seconds

On the other hand, to the immeasurable daring and dealing with oneself, knight of the moment, the very tedious task of perceiving this solid mass of modern gastronomy in person: whisk oil, eggs, salt, and mustard until mayonnaise follows.

Well, you see, at this very moment, in front of our wonderful chef is a wonderful machine crane. For if everyone hurries him out of his nearest convenience store, it is because he has forgotten that it takes only two hundred and forty seconds of his time–precious, I think–to arrive in one turn of the whip to replace from the bottom of the cul-de-poule all industrial approximations Which marketing strives every day to make us swallow. Two hundred and forty seconds for a “real” one, the ones we make sandwiches, from breakfast to midnight cravings. Two hundred and forty seconds, the time roughly required to succumb, dear reader, these few lines, which have now been maliciously forced upon you on the page of the Terroirs by your favorite newspaper for four months. Two hundred and forty seconds, including preparation, mayonnaise and storage.

Mayonnaise takes color and the world takes color

See rather: breaking the egg. separate it from the white, put the yolk into a dead end and cover the surface with salt; add mustard – making sure, for a better grip, that it is the same temperature as the egg; Using a whisk, make regular circular motions, then once the first three ingredients are mixed, pour the equivalent of three tablespoons of oil in a thin stream while whisking; Continue with three and three tablespoons, until the desired mayonnaise is obtained. A touch of whatever you want – pepper, fresh herbs, peppercorns. Veneto. I master it. You just have, with a flick of your wrist, the world pauses for a moment – short.

From a chief, you become a high priest, an agent of the Almighty: you realize that homemade mayonnaise takes less time than grilled mayonnaise. This is a revelation, it is infinitely better. It’s time for change.

The next day, you will start again: this time casting the lightning of your youthful strength on tabbouleh. new success. It can hardly be imagined. It’s rapture. Everything from semolina to finely chopped garlic will have you chopping for just a few seconds. The next evening, homemade pancakes with Grand Marnier. Then quiche, gnocchi, fresh pasta. Very quickly, you gain confidence and get ready in the morning, at the controls of that same appliance to suspend the time that has become your kitchen, your midday break.

You swarm. Your colleagues, and your entourage are following you. Everywhere, on construction sites, in offices, packed lunches are gradually replacing restaurant trays. The world takes on colours. Take mayonnaise.

Chef and researcher

With Indian and Catalan roots, Aveyronnaise by adoption, Alix Pons Bellegarde is principal investigator. With anthropologist Antonin Pons Brale and their children, you travel the world documenting the culinary cultures of the islands and northern regions. In 2021, the couple founded their own brand “Famille Pons Bellegarde” and their magazine dedicated to the world of salt. From Bezonnes, near Rodez, this spring is also launching a monthly magazine dedicated to Aveyron alimentarium, as well as Table and Seasonal Grocery. The duo delivers a weekly diary of Alex Aveyron’s kitchen to Center Presse readers.

Coming soon: ponsbellegarde.com

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