The recipes of our grandmothers in Gers: Aliquette and foie gras with figs on the menu in Solange, in Marsan

primary
In this second part of our series highlighting our grandmothers’ recipes from Guernsey, Solange Pomès welcomes Rémi Dispersyn to Marsan with foie gras with figs, aliquots and homemade crunchy.

The pleasant aroma of grilled meat is already pervasive in the kitchen of Solange Pomès, on the Sunday morning when Rémi Dispersyn enters the house. “I’ve already cooked the duck chops, that indicates the retired breeder. It should be cooked for a good while after that.” La Marsannaise invites family and friends for a Sunday meal and prepares a small meal. “Generally, we put the less noble parts of the duck in there, such as the necks, thighs or thighs,” identifies 69-year-old Solange. Once the meat is grilled, cover it with water and cook over low heat. Rémi and Célia, Solange’s granddaughter, then begin peeling the apples for dessert: Gersoise is crisp with a modified recipe. Solange loves to cook and has no shortage of ideas to try.

For this foie gras recipe, Solange begins by removing the veins.
DDM – Sebastien Lapierre

The starter, for example, has been making it for a few years after considering pairing figs with foie gras. “I soak the dried fruit in Armagnac and then garnish the liver with it, I also often cook it with marinade in Muscat. As for the savory, I act on instinct,” says the municipal councilor. Foie gras is his favorite test subject. Feeding for more than 40 years with her husband Robert and now with her son Frederic, who also raises nearly 80 Blondes d’Aquitaine, the duck is generally not short on cumes, even if this year it’s rare due to bird flu. “It is the first time in 46 years that I will have to force-feed sticks,” regrets Solange, who has been with her husband on this Marsan Hill since 1976.

Cooking is a family affair

While Solange puts the liver in Mary’s trough in the oven, Celia, 17, a student at Bardelhan High School in Osh, and Remy, a former high school in the same sector, chops carrots, onions, and garlic for an alicuit. A chance for Bordelli to reminisce about his high school years and give advice to the young girl. The carrots and onions end up in the skillet and once they’re back, Solange adds vegetables to the alicuit broth as well as herbs freshly picked in front of the house.

Solange adds onions and carrots to the alicuit broth.

Solange adds onions and carrots to the alicuit broth.
DDM – Sebastien Lapierre

Then take the puff pastry out of the freezer. “I tried for the first time with Thermomix,” she identifies, slightly concerned about the behavior of the preparation. Then you spread it on the table, very thin, and arrange the bottom of the pie in a mould. Then Remy arranges apples sliced ​​and marinated in Armagnac accompanied by vanilla sugar, which never fails to taste a bit down the road. Then the cook covers the fruit with a second circle of dough. “Some seem to be reproducing the traditional beading lace with sweet brick panels. But I prefer to keep it simple.” Goose liver is replaced with crunchy in the oven for an hour.

The meal is just waiting for the guests. The big table is set for 13 guests – Solange asks “Remy, you’re not superstitious, I hope?”. The Gercois then take the wine world on a tour of the family’s home. In the barn, a few days old calves accompany their mothers while his son Frédéric and Olivier checks that everything is going well.

The first guests arrive shortly after Rémi and Solange join the house. Little by little, a pair of friends and neighbours, Robert’s father, Frederick and his family arrive. Everyone settles down on the balcony for an aperitif from a rapier, then around the dining-room table. Then the chefs of the day prepare the dishes, each one more decorated than the other. Tradition in Solange, her friend slips: “When we come to eat here, we know we won’t leave hungry.”


Solange Foie Gras with Figs

Foie gras is adorned with figs in Armagnac.

Foie gras is adorned with figs in Armagnac.
DDM – Sebastien Lapierre

Ingredients (for 12 people):

  • Fresh liver 500 gm
  • dried fog
  • Armagnac
  • salt
  • pepper

Soak dried figs in Armagnac for several hours.
Take foie gras so that it is at room temperature.
Bury the liver with salt and pepper on both sides.
Top with fig.
Tighten well and put the liver in a terrine.
Cover and cook in a water bath in the oven for 30 minutes, at 120 or 130 degrees.
Enjoy, put it under vacuum or put it in the freezer.

alicuit solange

The noodles are cooked directly in the yoghurt broth.

The noodles are cooked directly in the yoghurt broth.
DDM – Sebastien Lapierre

Ingredients (for 12 people):

  • Duck meat: 10 necks, 10 wings, 20 km
  • a dozen carrots
  • 2 onions
  • some tomatoes
  • Spices: salt, pepper, rosemary, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, garlic
  • Pasta, rice or potatoes

Fry the meat pieces until well grilled. Cover it with water.
Fry onions and carrots in a skillet. Once cooked, add it to the sauce.
Add the chives, rosemary, thyme, parsley, garlic, and bay leaf.
Simmer for two hours over low heat.
Add some tomatoes to the sauce (optional).
A few minutes before eating, pour the pasta (or a side dish) directly into the sauce so that it simmers in the broth.

Homemade Solange Crispy

Crisp or solange pie.

Crisp or solange pie.
DDM – Sebastien Lapierre

Ingredients:

  • 2 sheets of pancake batter (homemade or purchased)
  • a dozen apples
  • Armagnac
  • 3 packs of vanilla sugar

Peel the apples, cut them into thin slices, and soak them in Armagnac and vanilla sugar.
Roll out the dough. Cover it with apples. Put the second dough. connect well.
Bake for 45 minutes at 180 degrees.


Remy Despercin, a connoisseur of stories

Rémi Dispersyn grew up in Gers and then left for Paris and Bordeaux, where he works as a bartender. Passionate about his profession and all that is about transferring knowledge from the table, he wants to top our grandmothers, refusing to leave their tales, memories and knowledge in limbo.

For this, he decided to meet these women and honor the gastronomy of our region, by describing recipes and sharing moments, as we can do on Sundays about family meals. The desire to impart knowledge, but also to shake off the prevailing ideas of our elders. During the series, Remy sets out to meet these “ordinary” women and wants to tell their story through their knowledge. Then he imagines putting all these recipes together in a book.

Leave a Comment