good morning. Tonight’s dinner might be pasta and cannellini with Beure Blanc sauce (above), a recipe Tegal Rao learned from British cookbook author Jack Monroe. I like it because it’s easy and luxurious and it comes together quickly. And it will leave me time to prepare a marinade for these wonderful pork gyros for tomorrow or the next, with oven-baked French fries on the side, ketchup with hot sauce and yogurt with lemon juice and garlic.
It’s the season for innovation, after all: dried fruit soaked in brandy to make cakes and appetizers alike; Dirty Chai earthquake cakes to take to the still-quiet office, to share with those who have made the journey; Black cake fed with rum until the end of the month.
But I will be making more than just food for the future this week. I want to give this chocolate cake a pop with mint frosting too. A copy might end up on the Christmas table, to follow up on the ham. (Here, by the way, is a definite set of our funny recipes: Pork Bread.) I’d like to make linguine with lemon sauce one night soon. And the mangoshi recipe for cheese town as well.
I could go for some pasta puttanesca. I would like to eat a plate of Pojarski veal. Roasted squash salad would make a great dinner, too, away from the fertile mind of Ned Baldwin, chef and owner of Houseman in New York. How about a cereal frittata with spicy lemon and fresh herbs? Or salmon gochugaru with crispy rice? This also!
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Now, it’s more about professional kitchens than anything about preparing dinner for your family, but I loved the Montreal Gazette’s exit interview with chef David McMillan, who recently announced he’s leaving the company after 32 years. “I would never want to shave white truffles on asparagus for someone from Toronto again in my life,” he said.
To help celebrate the 10th anniversary of “The Essential New York Times Cookbook,” I visited with my old colleague Amanda Heisser, who wrote it, and cooked Momofuku’s bo ssam for Food52 cameras. This video is here.
Gifts and Library Feed: Please explore our list of the 10 best books of 2021.
Finally, here’s Morgan Wade, “Wilder Days,” straight from Blackbird Studio in Nashville, earlier this fall. Play that out loud, and I’ll be back on Wednesday.